In his thrilling and candid memoir, big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara chronicles his unlikely and harrowing journey to ride the most formidable waves on earth.
Garrett McNamara set a world record when he surfed a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal, in 2011, a record he smashed three years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge, McNamara travels the globe to ride the most dangerous waves, from giant barrels breaking on shallow, jagged reefs to massive, open ocean hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes Is catching giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender
ISBN 10: 0062573802
Imprint: HarperCollins – US
On Sale: 01/12/2016<
List Price: $36.99nzd
Genre: Biography & True Stories / Biography: sport
***I voluntarily reviewed an Advanced Reader’s Copy of this book for my honest review & I thank the publishers Harper Collins NZ***
Considering I hardly ever pick biographical books when I was given the catalogue for reviews from #HarperCollinsNZ the first thing that grabbed my eye was the cover, as a keen photographer it just drew me in to look closer, that #wave, its like #epic (I am channeling my latent #surferchick vibe, can you tell)
I LOVE the sea, having been born on the East Coast of England, and then moving to NZ and also living even nearer the sea (200m away) I then lived on the coast of Queensland for 3 years, and now I am back in Invercargill, and drive to Bluff twice a day and I do enjoy the ever-changing view of the sea. My goal is to get back to living with a #seaview again soon.
I have always wanted to learn to surf (and I decided to add it to my bucket list after reading this book) OK I doubt I will ride waves as big as Garrett does, but the thing is I’ve been glued to this book, and it is not just because it’s about #surfing, because although it is, it is also about striving for your #dreams #goals and the main lesson I got from reading this book is that you #neverquit.
It was a truly inspirational read, at first, the book had my eyebrows raised, his childhood is like off the scale opposite to myself and my husband’s, I couldn’t imagine how he and his brothers did not fall foul of a sticky end. BUT I do think his unusual upbringing had something to do with the way he looks at life.
He talks candidly about his life, the highs and lows, the pages were full of stories that showed his Passion, commitment, friendship, loyalty and honesty. He lives for the moment, for all the possibilities, to pursue your dreams no matter they be big or small.
Quote: Fear is a choice, something we manufacture in our in our minds. When we think about the past or the future we become afraid. We’re afraid because we remember when something bad happened before and we’re scared it’s going to happen again. If we are in the moment and enjoying the moment and making the best of the moment, there is no fear.
I think the one thing I will take from reading this book is that even when everything was going wrong, he still carried on… this has had an effect on me, So I will keep picking myself up as life throws its spanners in my life, smile and enjoy the journey down this road called life.
Hard-sell big-wave daredevil from the North Shore of Oahu; two-time Billabong XXL Performer of the Year; called “one of the most extreme high-sensation seekers on the planet,” by fellow big wave rider Greg Long.
McNamara was born (1967) in Massachusetts, moved with his family to Hawaii at age 12, began surfing shortly thereafter, and was riding the North Shore’s heavyweight breaks by 16. After an uneventful competitive career ran out of gas out in the mid-1990s, the anvil-jawed regular foot launched his professional second act by becoming one of the sport’s most fearless—and cocksure—tow surfers. Along with tow partner Rodrigo Risende, McNamara won the inaugural Tow Surfing World Cup at Jaws in 2002; he then became a regular nominee at Billabong XXL Awards, winning Best Overall Performance in 2003 and in 2007, and the Monster Paddle Award for largest paddle-in wave of the year, also in 2007. #courtesy of encyclopediaofsurfing
Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom, McNamara’s memoir, was published in 2016.
The book really does make you want to google while reading, check out this interview with Garrett and video of the ride of the Nazare wave, the 100ft World Record Wave, Garrett McNamara Surfing Nazare, Portugal courtesy of the Surf Channel Television Network